Mussel Soup (Zuppa di Cozze)

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The true specialty of Ligurian cooking is fish, always absolutely fresh and very simply cooked in its own broth with a little oil For a short time in spring, tiny baby fish called gianchetti (fry) are to be found. These are cooked in soup, boiled and eaten with oil and lemon, or mixed with egg and fried as fritters.


Curried Mussels

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2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 large leeks, whites and light greens only, thinly sliced, rinsed, drained

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1 1/2 teaspoon Madras curry powder

2 1/2 pounds mussels, beards removed

1/2 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk

2 tablespoons cilantro leaves (for serving)


Quick and Easy Cioppino

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The legacy of San Francisco’s Italian and Portuguese immigrants—many of them fishermen—lives on in this fuss-free take on the North Beach favorite, with fresh fennel adding a subtle touch of anise to the tomato-based seafood stew.